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  #41  
06-16-2016, 07:41 PM
dragracererf
Junior Member
 
: Sep 2015
: 27

this poor guy was looking for something to do, put your dial in on your car and cut a light and run 018 or better you can win,, you have to have a car that will run the same every time, I remember when the Flintstones did this one time
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  #42  
12-01-2016, 02:38 PM
79elck
Junior Member
 
: Sep 2015
: 1

:
The idea is pretty simple, basically racers would be going back to the the old school way of racing where a shade tree mechanic built their race cars.

It would go something like this, and I will explain all the rules:

Boring and stroking is allowed.

All cars required to use production small blocks only. If it is a chevrolet, only 262-400 ci are allowed. Fords, only 289, 302, 351W, 351C, or Boss 302. Mopar, the 318-360 engine family.

AMC gets to use the 304-401s. Good luck find one....

Pontiacs, Olds, Cadillac, and Buicks will have to be looked at more closely because with those engines a 350 could have the same size block as a 455 and may be difficult to tell the difference. However, I don't think it will be too much of an issue because due to the large costs of building these motors very few people race them, and the factory cylinder heads that are decent are rarer than a winning lottery ticket.

No 385 series Fords, no FE Fords, no big block chevrolet's including the smaller cubic inch truck motors, and no big block Mopars. The reason why is many can be stroked to well over 500 ci. That invites more big money.

No LS, Ford modular, or newer mopar hemi stuff allowed. Reason being is this stuff is superior to the older small block engines and invites the bigger money racers.

All motors must use factory production blocks and cylinder heads. Absolutely no aftermarket allowed on blocks and heads. The reason for this is quite simple. The factory blocks for all three will only allow a max cubic inch of around 440 with a stroker kit. If you allow aftermarket blocks, the sky is the limit and this invites more big money.

All engine blocks must be a 2 bolt main only. No 4 bolt blocks or 4 bolt conversions. Why is this? Keeping a block 2 bolt main limits the horsepower capacity and capability of the motor. This helps keep the big money guys out because they will not want to spend a pile of money on a high $ super light weight crank/rods/pistons and risk losing it all when they spin that 2 bolt main block to 10,000 rpm. Using a girdle is allowed.

Cylinder heads, basically same story. Aftermarket heads are pretty much unlimited in terms of choice and modification. Stock heads are much more limited.

No rare or exotic extreme limited production factory cylinder heads or blocks either.

Single carb intakes only.

No nitrous or forced induction allowed. Again, invites more big money racers. No other fuels allowed other than gasoline, or E85 because it is cheap.

No tubbing, cutting or welding on the chassis to improve suspension. If it won't bolt on, or you can't hammer out the rear quarter panels to make the tires fit, you cannot use them. All cars have to retain the factory glass, and steel body parts. In other words, no fiberglass or carbon fiber fenders, bumpers, trunk lids, cowls, etc. The only exception is if the car was originally equipped with them. No lexan. No wheelie bars. No cutting of floor pans and replacing with anything lighter than steel.


Fiberglass or carbon fiber is only allowed for the hood.

Transmission:

All transmissions have to be built using a factory Ford, GM, Mopar, or AMC case. No aftermarket transmissions allowed. However, you can use whatever aftermarket internals you like.

Rear end:

All rear end housings have to be a factory Ford, GM, Mopar, or AMC. No aftermarket housings. Ford 9" users must use a factory iron center section. No aluminum allowed and that includes pinion bearing support. Reason being is because the guys using the Ford 8.8s, or the GM 12 bolts don't have that lighter weight option.

Drive shafts:

Aluminum or steel only.

Wheels:

Whatever you can make work.

Tires:

Whatever you can make fit without cutting on the car.

Carb:

Single carb 2 or 4 barrel only, but no limit on cfm.

EFI:

Has to be factory configuration. In other words, if it came with an upper and lower, it has to stay upper and lower. If it came with tuned port injection, it has to stay that way. Retrofitting either into older carbed cars is allowed. Aftermarket versions of these manifolds are allowed.

Exhaust:

Any exhaust is allowed. Open headers allowed.

Roll Cage:

Steel only

Ignition:

Any ignition allowed

Electronics:

No electronics that aid in traction control or reaction time allowed. Transbrakes or clutches must be manual operated although they can be used in conjunction with a rev limited such as a 2 step..

All cars will be given a quick visual inspection before the race to make sure they are compliant with the basic rules (chassis, engine type, etc). After that, the 1st and 2nd place winners will be thoroughly inspected. 1st and 2nd place winners will not be allowed to return to their pit area until they are inspected.

This covers most of the basics for the heads up class.

Questions welcome.
as constructive criticism only. your going a little too far with the 2 bolt main block only. If you are going to be running a production cylinder head the need for a 4 bolt block will not benefit the racer anyway. I like the way these rules are set up and i run these types of races as much as i can. just my 2 cents
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  #43  
12-02-2016, 11:21 AM
jboweriii's Avatar
jboweriii
Member
 
: Sep 2015
: Panama City
: 40
Build a Grudge car:)

$75,000 Street Outlaws race monday night. Street racing heads up Grudge is where the money is at! People want heads up, no prep! The more on edge, the better. But the cars they have running are a good chance for a major crash. No room for mistakes, but need big balls! RS back when it started was exciting, but technology has grown so much that RS is almost predictable with not much excitement. Just make sure your safety gear is top notch with the speeds.
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